Thursday, 23 April 2020

Day 1 - Old Kilpatrick and Duntocher Forts



DAY 1: Old Kilpatrick Fort to Duntocher Fort (approximately 4 miles)

The walk begins at the bascule bridge at Ferrydyke (a short walk from the hearest railway station at Bowling and accessed via Bowling harbour and the towpath along the Forth & Clyde Canal). We begin our Roman walk near the ruin of the old bridgekeeper's cottage,crossing the bascule bridge there, which takes us to the north side of the canal onto Portpatrick Road (SV). On our right as we cross the bridge is the site of the old Ferrydyke Wharf or Donald's Quay. The bascule bridge leads us into the area of Old Kilpatrick previously occupied by the first (but if we're being accurate, more correctly, the last) fort on the Antonine Wall. It is "first" with us today merely because we are starting our walk at the western end of the wall, whose construction was begun on the eastern edge of the country, around the Firth of Forth.
During the Roman period, the reach of the Roman fort at Old Kilpatrick was all the way down to the River Clyde which was, then, a shallow, crossable river at this location. The fort was set a little back from the shore and, when the Forth & Clyde canal was being constructed, the remains of a Roman Bath House were found around the area of the Bascule Bridge.

Turn left on Portpatrick Road and retrace your steps along the north side of the canal, heading for the aptly named Roman Crescent and when you reach a curve in the road, turn right into the Crescent and head uphill (in the mid-19th century, this was known as Chapel Hill) until you are a 1/4 of a mile or so from the canal. You then turn into Dumbarton Road and head east. On your left you will see a school (Gavinburn Primary School) and hear (if not see) the traffic on Great Western Road trundling its way into Glasgow and, beyond that, Gavinburn Farm and the Kilpatrick Braes rising into the wider landscape. These hills behind the roman encampment would surely have provided a great lookout point for the Roman legionaries garrisoned here.

To the right, you will see a cluster of industrial buildings, originally the site of the Old Kilpatrick bus depot and now housing R. B. Steel & Co. - this is the inauspicious site of the Roman Fort at Old Kilpatrick and the western end of Antonine's Wall! If not for the 19th century maps, you might never have known it was there. The first buildings (the old bus depot) appear on an OS map surveyed in 1938.


Maps of Old Kilpatrick showing Roman Site over time
Reproduced with the permission of the National Library of Scotland

An earlier late 18th century map of Military antiquities of the Romans by William Roy (1793) provides an excellent overview of the forts and line of the wall (at that time called Grime's [or Graham's] Dyke) between Old Kilpatrick and the firth of Forth at Grange (just beyond present day Kinneil and Blackness Castle). The Roy map is especially interesting as it includes some hand-drawn sketches of various forts, including Duntocher.

Whilst there isn't much to see at Old Kilpatrick today, the site has been completely built over ... we do have the old maps and a fabulous 3D model created by the Antonine Wall organisation (see below). Remains were found here and there are two Roman distance slabs and an altar to Jupiter located in the Hunterian Museum at Glasgow University. Signs of a Roman bathhouse annexed to the Old Kilpatrick fort were also reputedly found on the site of the Forth & Clyde Canal near the Ferrydyke crossing.




Moving on with our walk once again, the easiest and most sensible route to the next Roman Fort at Duntocher is to retrace our steps and follow the canal to Lock 37 by the Erskine Bridge. In a brief diversion, you can cross the canal at Lock 37 and climb up onto the bridge to obtain great views up and down the River Clyde and out over the Kilpatrick Hills as well as an aerial view of the site of the old Roman Fort. Carrying on past Lock 37 and the Erskine Bridge, you come to the bridge at Farm Road (SV) near Dalmuir. Turn right at the top of Farm Road, pass the church and cross into Mountblow Road (SV) - you will see the multi-storey flats of Littleholm ahead of you. Follow the road up towards Dalmuir Golf Club and join the path (SV) beyond the garages after the flats at Littleholm Place. Walk through the golf course on the dedicated path (SV) heading uphill. Exit the golf course by the concrete steps/path up to Glenhead Road (SV) and use the flyover (SV) to cross Great Western Road. Follow the path until you come to Roman Road and keep going until you see the church (SV) and signs for Goldenhill Park on your right.
To your left the Duntocher Burn sweeps around the edge of the park. A bridge crossing the burn is called the Roman Bridge but it was, in fact, built as late as the 18th century, and repaired during WWII following the Clydebank Blitz.

Google Maps Aerial View of Goldenhill Park
with superimposed survey diagram of Duntocher Roman Fort and Fortlet

Goldenhill Park is the site of our second Roman fort of the day: Duntocher - which is also the first of the forts on the Antonine Wall to leave visible traces as can be seen on these aerial photos in Scotland's Canmore collection. There is also a very interesting geophysical survey of the site available online courtesy of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland.
A Roman-themed playpark was constructed within Goldenhill Park in the summer of 2019 to help raise awareness of the Roman Fort at Duntocher.
Meanwhile, a happy find of the day was a 1950s archaeological survey of Antonine's Wall by the Ordnance Survey preserved by Canmore. Fabulous maps!

Wednesday, 22 April 2020

Hadrian's Wall versus Antonine's Wall


Click cover to view book in full (opens in new tab)

In 2014, I walked the length of Hadrian's Wall with my sister-in-law, Karen. We walked the wall over 6 days and there was a lot to see. It was a truly memorable experience. After that, when I returned to live in Scotland 3 years later, it made sense to me that my next challenge should be to try to walk the length of Antonine's Wall. After all, it was closer to home and a much shorter walk - right!

I had visited Antonine's Wall before, mind you. As a teenage "Latin Lover" of the late 1970s we used to visit the site regularly each summer as a school outing, to engage in our annual battle of Picts v Romans - complete with bread sticks as swords (the team with the most 'crumbs' won) and home made SPQR banners - we even had an Asterix & Obelix mirror as a trophy. Ah, Mr A'Hara - you have a lot to answer for.



 An exploratory visit to Roughcastle Roman Fort in early 2017

I started to investigate the walk and made an exploratory trip to Roughcastle fort near the Falkirk Wheel. I quickly learned that the Scottish Roman Wall would be quite a different experience than its "elder brother" - Hadrian's Wall, further south. Undaunted, nevertheless, I decided that it was a matter of national pride to unearth this long, wide ditch of a "wall" in my native country. And so, here I am, nearly 3 years later, finally setting out "on the road" - albeit virtually for now.

Tuesday, 21 April 2020

New Year's Resolution Revisited


New Year's Resolution 2020 - Walk Antonine's Wall

Back on 1st January of this year, I decided that my walking challenge would be Antonine's Wall. I didn't get started straight away as I was waiting (1) for 'better weather' and (2) for lighter evenings, and (3) for nearby National Trust properties to open their doors (March mainly. All too soon, January became March and I was just getting started with my plans when the Coronavirus pandemic struck! Challenge shelved by lockdown for the foreseeable future.

Then, today (21st April) I stumbled upon a great idea from The Conqueror Virtual Challenges via Facebook - a virtual LEJOG (and some fantastic others, including the Grand Canyon, Hadrian's Wall, the Inca Trail and Route 66) challenge ... I very much fancied the LEJOG challenge but being under lockdown, it seemed highly unfeasible that I'd manage the proposed 90 miles a week for 3 months (completing in July 2020). Perhaps that's one for later in the year when present conditions may be a little more relaxed - and definitely one for the bicycle rather than walking.


It's not a bad garden so far as pacing back and forth goes, after all

BUT ... it got me to thinking - what if I was to do a small walking challenge, one I can do in my own back garden, in preparation for better days when I can actually get outside. The weather has been so sunny lately and I do need to get some exercise (especially with all these biscuits I've been eating with my coffee) ... so why not do a virtual Antonine's Wall walk? It's just under 40 miles, so won't be too onerous and it'll let me experience the walk before I go on a real world one. Could be fun and it's a good way of celebrating World Heritage Day which fell earlier this week (18th April) - yay - let's do it (as the fabulous Victoria Wood would've said). And how lovely to be able to get my old, trusty Garmin back on charge again!